Page 280 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan
P. 280

278      JAP AN  REGION  B Y  REGION


       8 Tsuruoka          up the 2,446 stone steps of the
                     Tsuruoka  Japanese cedar-lined path. Take
                           the bus to Haguro Center to start
       Yamagata prefecture. * 132,000. £
       n City Office, 9-25 Baba-cho (0235) 25-   the climb. At the second stage
       2111. _ Tenjin Matsuri (May 25), Shonai   is a teahouse with a view of the
       Taisai (Feudal Lord’s Procession Aug 15).  Mogami River valley. A side path
                           goes to the ruins of a temple
       Gateway to Dewa Sanzan,   where Basho stayed. At the top
       Tsuruoka was the Sakai clan’s   is the Dewa Sanzan Shrine, an
       castle seat. Best of this   impressive lacquered
       friendly town’s        building with the largest   Equestrian statue of Masamune, founder of
       attractions is the         thatched roof in   the city of Sendai
       Chido Museum,              Japan, and Prince
       west of the former         Hachiko’s tomb.   0 Sendai
       castle grounds. It         After the 1868 Meiji        Sendai
       includes a kabuto­         Restoration, all
       zukuri (helmet-style)      Shugendo temples   Miyagi prefecture. * 1,067,000.
                                               k £ n at 2F JR Sendai stn (022)
       farmhouse, and             were turned into   222-4069. _ Sendai Aoba Matsuri
       marvelous folk objects    Shinto shrines. The   (3rd weekend in May), Sendai
       such as lac quered sake   only true Buddhist struc-  Tanabata (Weavers’ Festival, Aug 6–8).
       caskets, bamboo          ture left is the graceful   ∑ sentabi.jp/en
       fishing poles, and       five-story pagoda
       decorative straw         at the foot of the    Laid out in a grid pattern in the
       bandori (back packs).    stone steps.   1600s by the dynamic lord Date
       Southeast of the castle   Bandori backpack,      Mount Gassan, also   Masamune, Sendai is the north’s
       is the 1806 Chidokan, a   Chido Museum  topped by a shrine,   largest city. Osaki Hachiman
       school for young sam-    offers alpine flowers    Shrine is a black lacquer
       urai. For the famous local painted   and summer skiing. It is a two-  architectural beauty in the
       candles, visit the over 300-year-  hour trek to the top from the   northwest of the city. Over-
       old Togashi Candle Shop.  Hachigome bus stop. The shrine   looking the ruins of Aoba Castle
                           on Mount Yudono, a 2.5-km    from 1602 is a statue of the
       P Chido Museum      (2- mile) hike from the Yudonosan   warrior Masamune, nick named
       Tel (0235) 22-1199. Open daily.   Hotel bus stop, has a sacred   the “one-eyed dragon.” The ruins
       Closed Dec–Feb: Wed. &  hot-water spring in which pil-  are set in a park that is a bus
       E Chidokan          grims bathe their feet. Mummi-  ride to the west of the station.
       Tel (0235) 23-4672. Open Thu–Tue.  fied priests, examples of soku­  Nearby, the ornately carved
                           shin jobutsu (living Buddhas),   Date mausoleums at Zuihoden,
                           can be seen at the temples of   rebuilt after the war, are
       9 Dewa Sanzan       Dainichi-bo and Churen-ji, on   remarkable replicas of
                           the way to Mount Yudono.  Momoyama-period architecture.
                                                        In March 2011,
       Yamagata prefecture. @ from Shoko              Sendai became the
       Mall near JR Tsuruoka stn. n at                epicenter of the worst
       Tsuruoka stn (0235) 25-7678. Mt                earthquake and
       Haguro: Open daily. _ Hassaku                  tsunami in recorded
       Matsuri (Aug 31), Shoreisai Matsuri            Japanese history.
       (Dec 31). Mt Gassan: Open Jul 1–fall.          Sendai airport was
       Mt Yudono: Open late Apr–early Nov.
                                                      engulfed by the 7-m
       Dewa is the old name for this                  (24-ft) high tsunami
       region and Sanzan are its three                wave resulting in its
       mountains – Haguro-san                         complete closure,
       (Mount Black Wing), Gassan                     and significant
       (Mount Moon), and Yudono-san                   damage was done
       (Mount Bath) – opened for                      to the road, rail, and
       religious purposes 1,400 years                 subway networks.
       ago by Hachiko, an imperial                    The city has made
       prince turned wander ing                       much progress since
       priest. The three are sacred to                the disaster and all
       yamabushi, mountain ascetics                   transport networks
       of the Shugendo sect.                          in the area have been
         Millions of pilgrims and sight-              re-established. Sendai
       seers visit Dewa Sanzan on foot                is now a safe place
       or by toll road. The route to the              for tourists to visit
       peak of Mount Haguro is a climb   Cedar-lined stone steps up to Mount Haguro  and all sites are open.
       For hotels and restaurants see p307 and pp337–8


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