Page 282 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

280  JAP AN REGION B Y REGION

Irregularly shaped pine-covered islands in Matsushima bay
q Matsushima islands in its bay. These pine- leader, and killed. Yoritomo
Matsushima covered islets are the reason then turned against Yasuhira
Matsushima became renowned and had the clan wiped out.
Miyagi prefecture. * 14,500. £ to as one of Japan’s “three famous At its peak, Hiraizumi had a
Matsumisha and Matsushima-Kaigan. views.” Post-tsunami reconstruc- population of 100,000. Wishing
g from Shiogama. n outside JR
Matsushima-Kaigan stn (022) 354- tion is underway. Zuigan-ji, a to create a Buddhist paradise
on earth, Kiyohira enriched the
handsome Zen training temple,
2263. _ Toronagashi Hanabi Taikai
(floating lanterns, Aug 15), Osegakie is undergoing renovations 9th-century temples Chuson-ji
(Consolation Festival, Aug 16, Zuigan-ji). until 2018, but parts of it and Motsu-ji. Chuson-ji is 5
remain open to the public. minutes by bus from the sta tion,
Take a hint from Matsuo followed by a long climb lined
Basho’s 1689 visit to the bay with towering Japanese cedars.
of Matsushima and make w Hiraizumi Only two of its many original
Shiogama your starting point. Hiraizumabuildings remain: the small
The busy Shiogama Wholesale Golden Hall, splendid with gold
Fish Market, active from early Iwate prefecture. * 8,000. £ leaf, lacquer, and mother of pearl,
n next to JR stn (0191) 46-2110. _
morning until about 1pm, is Fujiwara Matsuri (May 1–5 & Nov 1–3). where the first three Fujiwara
known for its huge tuna leaders are buried; and the Sutra
auctions. Dedicated to both Nine hundred years ago, the Hall. In the Treasure Hall are
mariners and mothers-to-be is Northern Fujiwara clan, under remarka ble precious artefacts
the beautiful hilltop Shiogama Fujiwara Kiyohira, made this small from the Fuji wara coffins and
Shrine. Make time to lunch at town into a cultural and econo- the temple.
one of Shiogama’s superb sushi mic capital, second only to Kyoto. All that remains of the origi nal
restaurants before taking the Three genera tions later, Hiraizumi Motsu-ji (a 10-minute walk from
ferry to Matsushima. was in ruins. Yoshitsune, Japan’s the station) are its foundations
Although the tsunami of March archetypal tragic hero, sought and beautiful Heian-period para-
2011 caused widespread des- refuge here from Yoritomo, dise garden, the best in Japan.
truction along Japan’s northeast his jealous brother and Japan’s
coast, Matsushima was greatly first shogun, but was betrayed
spared thanks to the numerous by Yasuhira, the last Fujiwara e Hanamaki
Hanamaki
Iwate prefecture. * 98,000. k £
n at JR Shin-Hanamaki and JR Hana-
maki stns. _ Godaison Sominsai
(Naked Festival, Jan 7 in lunar
calendar). ∑ kanko-hanamaki.
ne.jp/en/; Hanamaki Matsuri
(Fri– Sun, 2nd weekend in Sep);
Kenji Miyazawa (1896–1933),
one of Japan’s best-loved
writers, was born in Hanamaki,
a thriving hot-spring town. He
wrote more than 1,200 poems
and 90 children’s stories, and
Steps up to Hiraizumi’s Golden Hall at Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi worked to improve conditions
For hotels and restaurants see p307 and pp337–8

280-281_EW_Japan.indd 280 08/08/16 3:09 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm