Page 35 - Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond Fish, 3rd Edition

LIGHTING AND HEATING 33

CHOOSING A HEATER Adjustable
thermostat
Thermostatic heaters are the most popular choose a unit that can be fully submerged in
and reliable means of heating a tank. They your tank. Thermostatic heaters keep water
are available in various lengths for aquariums temperature constant by switching the heating
of different depths and in different power element on and off repeatedly. For this reason,
(wattage) ratings. Allow about 100 watts for they have a relatively short life span and
every 26 gallons (100 liters) of water, and should be replaced every two years or so. Warm
Although good-quality heaters are reliable, it is cable
wise to put a separate thermometer in the tank
to pick up any irregularities in temperature. Anchorage points
This should not be positioned directly above
the heater. Thermostatic heaters are suitable for
Heater is fixed to the
glass of the tank use with most fish, but some aggressive species
with rubber suckers with razor-sharp teeth, such as piranhas (see
p.92), can cut through electrical cables. For Heating element at
The heater is enclosed in these fish, undergravel heating units, which are base of heater
a glass tube, which can not accessible, are preferred. Short heaters (left) are suitable for
become warm when the small breeding or isolation tanks.
unit is in use
Thermostatic heaters can only add heat to the
tank. In warm climates, overheated rooms, or tanks A heating cable (above) may be
under bright lights, it may be necessary to install a installed in the base of the tank,
chiller to reduce water temperature. beneath the substrate.

The amount of light needed in the tank depends largely on There are two
the plant species kept. In general, tanks with many substrate basic types of
plants need stronger lighting than those with floating plants, aquarium ELECTRICAL SAFETY
thermometers—
and deeper tanks need more than shallow ones. For most tank the traditional • Make sure the power supply
setups, it is enough to leave the lights on for about 10 hours alcohol-filled is disconnected before placing
each day; too long a period of illumination will encourage the design (far left) your hands in the water.
growth of algae—not only on the glass, but also on other tank and the LCD type • Allow the heater time to
(left), which
plants, which may cause them to die. Fluorescent tubes should fits onto the cool before lifting it out of
be replaced roughly every 12 months, even if they appear outside of the the water.
to be working. Light output falls and quality changes with aquarium glass. • Avoid trailing cords and
adaptors. Consider using
the age of the tube, and although these changes may be a cable organizer instead.
imperceptible, they will stress the plants in the tank.

Heating the aquarium
A freshwater aquarium is usually heated to 76–79°F
(24.5–26°C) using a thermostatic heater (see box, above).
This is a special waterproof electrical heating element
that incorporates a thermostat; the thermostat measures
water temperature and switches off the
heater when the desired level has been
reached. The most efficient units are those
that can be fully submerged in the water.
A high-capacity tank may need two or even three
heaters to maintain the target temperature throughout
its whole volume, and more heaters may need to be added
in the winter months. Even in a smaller tank, using two
heaters is a sensible precaution; if one fails, the other
will provide the necessary heat. The overall cost of heating Fish vary greatly in their temperature requirements. The
White Cloud Mountain Minnow is adaptable, surviving
the tank will remain the same as if one device were used. happily in temperatures from 66°F (19°C) to 82°F (28°C).

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