Page 171 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 15: The Dordogne: Source to Sea 169

7 Spontour-sur-Dordogne Darazac. Further down the road turn
Corrèze, Limousin; 19550 right onto the D29, to the Barrage du
Until the dams were built, Spontour- Chastang, for a splendid view of the
sur-Dordogne was a major river port. dam and the river. From Chastang
The Dordogne provided an impor- turn right onto the D129, which runs
tant means of transport. Trees were along side the river, until it widens out
cut from the sur rounding forests and at Argentat.
taken down to the lower Dordogne
to make stakes for the vines. It was 9 Argentat
here that the gabares were con- Corrèze, Limousin; 19400
structed, flat-bottomed boats which The town of Argentat is situated
were skilfully manoue vred down the at the junction of three regions: Midi-
river. Today the town, with its stone Pyrénées, Limousin and Auvergne.
roofed houses and church spire, sleeps This was once a key river port, where
quietly beside the Dordogne; boats went downstream with wood,
nostalgic gabare trips are all that is chestnuts, butter, cheese and skins,
left of its once vital role in river life. and returned with oil, wine, walnuts
ª Drive back across the river onto the and salt. Visitors can still see the Above Water gushing out of the massive
D978, then a sharp right onto the D75. cobbled quays and houses built right Barrage d’Aigle on the Dordogne Left
Continue to Darazac, then turn right next to the river; note the maisons à Sixteenth-century limestone carving in
onto the D13 to Bassignac-le-Haut. bolet, riverside houses with a roofed Bassignac-le-Haut Below Dordogne river
bal cony connected with the garden flows between the slopes, Bort-les-Orgues
at the back of the house. The first
bridge was built here in 1829; before
that, the Dordogne river could only
be crossed by wading through it or
by ferry. It is a delightful town ACTIVITIES IN ARGENTAT
to wander around, with its maze
of streets. There is still evidence all Office de Tourisme d’Argentat
Place da Maïa,19400; 05 55 28 16 05;
around town of the coop ers, car-
www.tourisme-argentat.com
penters and tanners who once made
their living here. Now there are cafés EAT AND DRINK
and restaurants on the quays and
gabare river trips available. Argentat MAURIAC
has also emerged as a great destina- Écu de France expensive
tion for sports and outdoor activities, Originally a post house built in the
including golf, paragliding, rock- 1880s, this hotel-restaurant has retained
climbing and watersports. the building’s charm and Auvergne style.
8 Bassignac-le-Haut ª Take the D116 out of town. Turn A superb and varied menu includes
vegetarian and children’s choices.
Corrèze, Limousin; 19220 right onto the D940 and cross the river 6 avenue Charles Périé, 15200; 04 71 68
The D13 abandons the river gorges to Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne. 00 75; closed Mon lunch
near the little village of Bassignac-
le-Haut, zigzagging to the uplands
above. Around here, visitors will find
small, self-contained villages, lime-
stone replacing the granite of the
Auvergne, but still with steeply
pitched roofs of lauze stones and
surrounded by rich pastures roamed
by well-fed cows. Stop at the tiny
village of Bassignac-le-Haut to see a
remar kable Romanesque sculpture,
a 16th-century limestone cross out-
side the church. The cross has deeply
incised carvings of scenes from the
life of Christ, endear ing in their naivety,
and astonish ingly preserved from
any damage.
ª From the village follow the D13,
then turn right onto the D75 at