Page 169 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 15: The Dordogne: Source to Sea 167

orientation table will help with the
area’s geography. On a clear day it is
possible to see as far as the Alps. The
Puy de Sancy is part of an ancient
dormant vol cano, once much higher
than it is today. The mountain is part
of the Parc Naturel Régional des
Volcans d’Auvergne (see pp156–61), an
area popular for walk ing, para gliding,
climbing, and in winter, skiing. Visitors
can return on the téléphérique or
descend on foot on the well-indicated
Chemin des Crêtes, which will take
two hours. It is here on the northern
slopes of the Puy de Sancy that the
Dordogne rises. Seek out the rocky
ravine at the foot of the peak, where
two little springs appear, neatly Above left Typical stone house in Le Mont-
labelled Dore, which means “water” south until the D922, turning right after Dore Above right Château de Val with the
in old Celtic, and Dogne. They trickle Trémouille-St-Loup. Turn right after 7 lake below it Below Scenic spa town of La
together over mossy stones and, fed km (3 miles) at Le Péage to reach Bourboule near Le Mont-Dore
by tributaries, the new river soon flows Château de Val.
briskly down through the spa towns
of Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule. 3 Château de Val
EAT AND DRINK
ª Follow the D983 north through Les Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 15270
Egravats to reach Le Mont-Dore. Château de Val with its six pepper- LE MONTDORE
pot towers is a romantic sight beside
2 Le Mont-Dore the lake, less so when visitors realize Le Bougnat moderate
Authentic hearty Auvergnat cuisine
Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne; 63240 the lake was once a river and there
is served in the rustic interior of this
Located on the right bank of the are several drowned villages under restored shepherd’s dwelling.
Dordogne river, Le Mont-Dore has the water. A photo graphic exhibition 23 rue Georges Clemenceau; 04 73 65
been a spa since Roman times, revived shows the progress of the build ing 28 19
during the belle époque when taking of the Bort-les-Orgues dam, and rem- AROUND LE MONTDORE
the waters was very fashionable. Now nants of the villages, revealed when
Le Parc des Fées moderate
it can seem rather grim, all grey gran- the lake was drained for maintenance. Elegant belle époque hotel-restaurant
ite and white shutters. This percep tion The château (open Apr–mid-Oct, closed on the banks of the Dordogne, serving
changes, however, once visitors see Tue) is delightful, with Renaissance authentic Auvergne dishes such as
the grand interior of the Thermes fire places, fine tapestries, and attics La Truffade (sliced potatoes and melted
créme fraîche cheese).
(open Apr to Oct, closed Sun) with its full of tools and old bed steads. Quai Maréchal Fayolle, La Bourboule,
colonnades, Byzantine tiles and monu- ª Drive back to the D922. Turn right 63150; 04 73 81 01 77; www.parcdes
mental staircase. From Le Mont-Dore, and drive straight to Bort-les-Orgues. fees.com; Dinner only
visitors can take a funicular railway
(dating from 1898) to the Capucin
plateau for walks and picnics. In win-
ter, a blanket of snow transforms the
Sancy area, which is popular for both
downhill and cross-country skiing.
The neighbouring spa of La
Bourboule has ornate pink bridges
and Art Nouveau flourishes to add
a touch of frivolity to the granite.
ª Leave Le Mont-Dore through
La Bourboule, on the D130. At La
Bourboule take the D996; at the junc-
tion before St-Sauves-d’Auvergne,
turn left onto the D922 to Tauves. Then,
for a first glimpse of the Dordogne
gorges, turn right onto the D987
towards Avèze. At Les Gannes turn left
onto the D73. Follow this wind ing route
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40