Page 170 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

168 BACK ROADS FRANCE

5 Mauriac
Cantal, Limousin; 15200
Mauriac was a pilgrimage town in the
Middle Ages, and the remains of its
11th-century Benedictine Monastère
St-Pierre can still be seen. The
Basilique Nôtre-Dame-des-Miracles
(open daily) is a huge Romanesque
church with a 12th-century octagonal
bell tower, superb carvings on the
tym panum and a beautiful carved
font inside. The town is home to many
other hand some old buildings, includ-
ing the Hôtel d’Orcet, built between
the 15th and 18th centuries. Mauriac
Above Wooded gorges of the Dordogne near is also famous for its cattle market,
Bort-les-Orgues Below Houses built on the 4 Bort-les-Orgues trading mainly Salers cows, whose
banks of the Dordogne river in Argentat Corrèze, Limousin; 19110 milk produces the renowned Fourme
The largest of the Dordogne dams, de Cantal and Salers cheeses.
Bort-les-Orgues is a dramatic sight. It ª Retrace the route to the D682. Take
is 120 m (394 ft) high with a reservoir the D105 at the next junction and
21 km (13 miles) long. The dam con- then turn right onto the D16 to cross
trols the flow of water and generates the Barrage d’Aigle.
enough hydro electricity to supply
power to over 77,000 homes. Visitors 6 Barrage d’Aigle
can see the huge lake, the amphi- Cantal, Limousin; 15200
theatre of the dam and the drop to The Aigle dam, spanning a dizzying
the gorge below. Located in the valley drop deep in the river ravine, is also
at the foot of the dam is the small known as the Resistance Dam. It was
WHERE TO STAY
town that lends its name to the dam. begun in 1938, but French Resistance
The river now carves its way down in efforts slowed down its construction
BORTLESORGUES
a huge curve through the deep and hence the Nazis were unable to
Chez Brandely inexpensive
The restored granite farmhouse of this ravines of the Dordogne gorges. use its power. The dam did not start
bed and breakfast offers exceptional ª Follow the D922 out of town and operations until 1945. A footpath
views of the dam and comfortable turn right onto the D15. Drive through along the gorge offers spectacular
rooms. Enjoy the home-made jams Chassagne and cross the river at Pont views. From Aigle there is a narrow
that come with the copious breakfast. de Vernéjoux; once on the right bank road which closely follows the river,
Dinner available on request.
570 route d’Ussel, 19110; 05 55 96 of the river, turn left onto the D168. glimpsed tantalizingly between the
84 55 Join the D982 (which becomes the chestnut trees that line the banks.
D682 accross the river), and cross the ª Retrace the route to the D105 and
AROUND BASSIGNACLEHAUT
river at Pont de St-Projet. Turn left turn right on the D678 which becomes
Rendezvous des Pêcheurs onto the D678 for Mauriac. the D978. Cross the river into Spontour.
inexpensive
Located 14 km (9 miles) north of
Bassignac-le-Haut, this is a won derful
small hotel under shady trees right by
the riverside. Excellent re gional cuisine
is served in the restaurant. The hotel is
acces sible by a winding route on the
right bank via St-Merd-de-Lapleau
fol lowing the D978 and the D13.
Pont du Chambon, St-Merd-de-
Lapleau, 19320 ; 05 55 27 88 39;
closed Nov–Feb
ARGENTAT
Hotel Fouillade inexpensive
A traditional family hotel in a19th-
century mansion, with a cosy rest-
aurant (with a fireplace in winter) that
serves local delicacies such as escargot
(snails) and chestnut-stuffed duck confit.
Place Gambetta, 19400; 05 55 28 10 17;
www.fouillade.com; closed Dec
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150