Page 118 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 118
New Releases: France
now, so let this unwind with moderate cellaring. Best from
92 Ferraton Père & Fils Côte- 2021 through 2027. 300 cases imported.—J.M. FRANCE
Rôtie Lieu-Dit Montmain 2017 Rhône / St.-Joseph
$101 Grippy in feel, with bramble- 92 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage
and tar-edged black currant, plum Calendes 2017 $34 Juicy and compact, featuring dark 95 Ferraton Père & Fils St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit
and black cherry compote flavors plum and blackberry fruit flavors, wrapped in sweet to- St.-Joseph 2017 $72 Richly rendered, with lots of
forming the core. A singed alder bacco and licorice root notes. Shows a tarry edge on the ganache and espresso notes leading off, followed quickly
spine runs through and harnesses finish. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made, 1,000 by waves of dark currant, plum and blackberry paste fla-
the finish. Best from 2022 through cases imported.—J.M. vors. Singed tobacco and alder elements fill in on the fin-
2032. 300 cases made, 20 cases ish. Features grip and drive to balance the heft. Well done.
DAMIEN BRISSET 92 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage
imported.—J.M. Winemaker Best from 2022 through 2035. 100 cases made, 20 cases
Lieu-Dit Les Pichères 2017 $34 Features a burly
edge, with grippy tar, blackberry paste, roasted alder and imported.—J.M.
92 Philippe Pacalet Côte-Rôtie 2017 $170 A chestnut notes rumbling through. Ends with a swath of 94 Delas St.-Joseph Ste.-Épine 2017 $80
fresh, slightly high-pitched style, with a mix of cassis, baker’s chocolate. Best from 2021 through 2026. 800 cases A suave and smoky style, with sandalwood, black tea,
blood orange and damson plum notes, gilded with dried made, 200 cases imported.—J.M. olive, juniper and bay leaf notes leading the way, followed
rose petal and singed alder accents. Tangy white pepper by a core of lightly steeped bitter plum and blackberry
and mineral details pervade the finish. Best from 2021 92 Les Vins de Vienne Crozes-Hermitage Les fruit. Concentrated, showing latent length as all the ele-
through 2031. 75 cases made, 12 cases imported.—J.M. Palignons 2017 $49 Bright and fresh in feel, with
racy loganberry and black currant coulis flavors racing ments take a late encore, supported by a lingering mineral
through, laced with anise and black tea notes and backed echo. Should unwind a bit more slowly than most of its
FRANCE by a subtle mineral edge on the finish. Best from 2020 colleagues. Best from 2022 through 2035. 503 cases made,
Rhône / Crozes-Hermitage through 2026. 447 cases made, 150 cases imported.—J.M. 25 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Les Vins de Vienne Crozes-Hermitage Lieu- 94 Ferraton Père & Fils St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit
93 Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage Dit Les Grappiats 2017 $56 Blackberry and black Bonneveau 2017 $67 Lush, with lots of dark plum,
2017 $29 See Smart Buys, page 101. blackberry and black currant compote flavors giving this
cherry paste flavors are laced with light apple wood, anise
93 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Ermitage Le and tobacco notes, backed by a juicy thread on the finish a fruit-forward profile, accented by well-embedded juni-
per and tobacco notes. A lively mineral hint peeks in on
Grand Courtil 2017 $57 Juicy and youthfully com- that lets the fruit linger pleasantly. Best from 2020 through the finish. There’s lots to like here, and this will cellar
pact, with a briary edge framing the dark currant and plum 2026. 200 cases made, 40 cases imported.—J.M.
preserve flavors, infused with anise, roasted apple wood 91 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La well. Best from 2022 through 2034. 150 cases made, 30
cases imported.—J.M.
and tar notes. A touch of cellaring should let this unwind. Matinière 2017 $26 Features a smoky edge, with
Best from 2021 through 2027. 500 cases made, 100 cases grilled savory and sage hints amid dark cherry and plum 94 E. Guigal St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit 2016 $75
imported.—J.M. Warm in feel, with a velvety display of enticing plum sauce
compote flavors. White pepper nuances run through the
92 Louis & Cherry Barruol Crozes-Hermitage velvety finish. Drink now through 2022. 7,500 cases made, and cherry preserve notes that meld with ganache, melted
licorice and mesquite flavors through the slightly exotic
Tiercerolles 2017 $36 Features a juicy ball of black 2,000 cases imported.—J.M. finish. Stays polished and focused. Will have fans for sure.
currant and fig paste flavors at the core, backed by tar, Best from 2020 through 2034. 315 cases imported.—J.M.
roasted apple wood and licorice root notes. Still compact
93 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph Lautaret 2017
$45 Fleshy and forward in feel, with a hint of ganache
leading steeped plum and raspberry fruit along, accented
by singed alder and licorice root notes. The solidly grippy
finish pulls everything together. Needs a touch of cellar-
ing. Best from 2022 through 2032. 340 cases made, 50
cases imported.—J.M.
93 Ferraton Père & Fils St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit
Paradis 2017 $61 Velvety in feel, with waves of ripe
plum sauce, raspberry reduction and blackberry preserves
gliding atop notes of ganache, alder and licorice root.
Well-structured through the finish, featuring a long echo
of fruit and cast iron. Best from 2022 through 2032. 140
cases made, 15 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph L’Arzelle 2017
$49 This offers a mix of raspberry and blackberry com-
pote flavors mixed with hints of violet, bay leaf and white
pepper, all backed by a tarry edge on the finish. A strong
iron element is buried deeply, giving this latent length.
Best from 2022 through 2032. 613 cases made, 300 cases
imported.—J.M.
93 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit Le
Biez 2017 $60 Features well-packed boysenberry, plum
and açaí berry compote flavors at the core, held in place
by a frame of ganache and smoldering tobacco. On the
grippy side, but delivers ample fruit. Best from 2022
through 2034. 200 cases made, 60 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Domaine Courbis St.-Joseph Les Royes 2017
$48 Suave, with layers of cool açaí berry, plum and
blackberry compote rolling through, underscored by warm
ganache, tobacco and dark licorice notes. Has a tarry spine
for support. Solid. Best from 2021 through 2032. 1,000
cases made, 120 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph Les Coteaux
2017 $35 Bright and juicy, with lots of blackberry and
plum compote flavors, inlaid with licorice and singed ap-
ple wood notes. A lively briar accent through the finish
offsets the toast. Best from 2021 through 2030. 2,000 cases
made, 450 cases imported.—J.M.
112 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
