Page 125 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Italy
93 Silvio Grasso Barolo Turnè 2015 $64 Floral
and strawberry aromas and flavors highlight this elegant
red. Firm, dusty tannins emerge as this works to a vibrant
finish. Tar, tobacco and mineral elements lend complex-
ity, while lively acidity drives the length. Best from 2023
through 2039. 250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Mauro Molino Barolo Bricco Luciani 2015
$65 Plum, cherry, leather, vanilla and toast aromas and
flavors mark this rich red. The tannins set up camp on
the lingering finish. Features plenty of ripe fruit under-
neath. Best from 2023 through 2042. 400 cases made, 140
cases imported.—B.S.
93 Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi 2015
$110 Eucalyptus, wild rosemary, licorice, leather, plum,
black cherry and iron aromas and flavors are the hallmarks
of this muscular red. Light spice accents add depth as this
cruises to a long finish. Best from 2024 through 2045. 750
cases made, 137 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Fratelli Revello Barolo Cerretta 2015 $82
An elegant, harmonious red, offering cherry, plum, leather,
licorice and light eucalyptus aromas and flavors. Balanced
and firm, with a long aftertaste of ripe fruit and savory
saline accents. Best from 2023 through 2040. 200 cases
made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Gigi Rosso Barolo Bricco San Pietro 2015
$65 Black cherry and plum flavors are matched to earthy,
leather and licorice notes in this red, showing more bass
than treble. Ripe and rich, with the lush texture integrat- rant flavors are accented by licorice, tar and stony mineral
ing nicely with the dense tannins. Best from 2022 through
2038. 400 cases made.—B.S.
93 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Vigna
Rionda 2015 $456 Vibrant and racy, with strawberry,
cherry, licorice, incense and spice flavors. The supple tex- 92 Gianni Gagliardo Barolo 2015 $49 Sweet,
ture adds to the appeal, while fine balance and a long fin- ripe cherry, plum and raspberry fruit permeates this supple
ish enhance the quality. Best from 2022 through 2040.
600 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Schiavenza Barolo Broglio Riserva 2012 $91
Enticing aromas of leather, tar, sandalwood and cherry
compote highlight this red, which is just hitting its stride.
The flavors mesh nicely with the dense structure. Bright
acidity focuses the lingering, iron-tinged aftertaste. Drink
now through 2035. 110 cases made, 41 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Schiavenza Barolo Cerretta 2015 $57 A
dense, muscular style, exhibiting plum and black cherry
fruit, allied to broad, beefy tannins. Tar, menthol and iron
flavors power through the heady finish. Best from 2023
through 2043. 433 cases made, 166 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Giovanni Sordo Barolo 2015 $45 High-toned
mint and orange zest aromas give way to strawberry and
cherry flavors in this elegant version. Firm and balanced,
adding iron, tobacco and tar details on the long finish.
Best from 2023 through 2042. 6,500 cases made, 3,500
cases imported.—B.S.
93 Giovanni Viberti Barolo San Pietro Riserva
2013 $127 Aromas of ripe, gamy cherry, mushroom
and leather are augmented by iron, leafy underbrush and
wild thyme notes. This finishes on the dry side, yet stays
long and austere. Fine complexity. Best from 2021 through
2035. 525 cases made, 180 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Voerzio Martini Barolo La Serra 2015 $92
This starts out with cherry and plum fruit, shaded by wet
hay, orange peel and chalky mineral notes. Firm, dense
tannins line the finish. This is balanced overall but needs
time for the components to integrate. Best from 2023
through 2042. 580 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Marziano Abbona Barolo 2015 $35 A wide
swath of plum, cherry, tar, licorice and underbrush flavors
is punctuated by bracing acidity and stiff tannins. Hangs
together nicely in the end, suggesting this should develop
well. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,110 cases made, 375
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Gianfranco Bovio Barolo Arborina 2015 $62
This shows some grip, supporting ripe dark cherry, plum,
leather and tar flavors. Hints of black pepper and camphor
fill in the details. Features ample acidity and finishes long.
Best from 2022 through 2035. 600 cases made, 400 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barolo Cer-
retta 2015 $109 A suave style, with a velvety texture
and refined tannins setting the stage for macerated plum,
cherry, menthol and sweet spice flavors. Balanced and ap-
proachable, firming up on the tobacco-tinged finish. Best
from 2023 through 2042. 400 cases made, 75 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Conterno Fantino Barolo Ginestra Vigna del
Gris 2015 $114 Vanilla and coconut aromas give way
to plum, cherry, tar, tobacco and toasty oak flavors. Firm,
yet fresh and balanced, with a long, chewy finish. Best
from 2024 through 2045. 500 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto
2015 $50 A whiff and caress of new oak wraps around
the ripe cherry, licorice and eucalyptus flavors in this me- Sleek, firming up on the finish. Best from 2022 through
dium-bodied red. Spice notes linger on the tobacco-tinged
finish. Best from 2022 through 2037. 4,000 cases
made.—B.S.
92 Renato Corino Barolo del Comune di La
Morra 2015 $52 Bright black cherry and black cur-
notes in this powerful red. The initial fleshiness is replaced
by dense tannins as this plays out on the long, spice-tinged
finish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,000 cases made,
350 cases imported.—B.S.
red, with accents of licorice, tar and cardamom. Lithe,
picking up mint and eucalyptus notes on the finish. Best
from 2023 through 2040. 2,915 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Mauro Molino Barolo La Serra 2015 $80
Bright and expressive, offering plum, cherry, chocolate
and baking spice flavors. The structure is well-integrated
and this should be approachable on the earlier side. Best
from 2022 through 2037. 300 cases made, 100 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Fratelli Revello Barolo Giachini 2015 $71
This is fruity, expressing cherry and raspberry flavors, aug-
mented by hay, orange peel and tar notes. Fluid and firm,
showing fine balance and solid grip on the resonant fin-
ish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 200 cases made, 80
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Rivetto Barolo Leon Riserva 2013 $126 This
red starts out with smoky, cinnamon and tar flavors. Fea-
tures sweet, ripe fruit at the center, along with formidable
tannins on the finish. The lasting impression is of balance
and emerging notes of plum and tobacco. Best from 2022
through 2035. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Giovanni Rocca Barolo Ravera di Monforte
2015 $45 A mix of cherry, plum, rosemary and tar fla-
vors mingle in this tough, dense red. Sanguine and iron
notes enter midpalate and this ends in a dense wall of
tannins. Best from 2024 through 2043. 750 cases made,
250 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Fratelli Seghesio Barolo 2015 $44 Balanced
and supple, with lively acidity and refined tannins mesh-
ing with the cherry, raspberry, mint and tobacco flavors.
2038. 1,600 cases made, 700 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Terre del Barolo Barolo Undicicomuni
Arnaldo Rivera 2015 $40 This features mellow aro-
mas of macerated cherry, rose, leather, iron and tobacco.
Ripe midpalate, gracefully ceding to firm tannins on the
finish. Elegant and focused. Best from 2023 through 2036.
4,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Piedmont / Other
93 Bel Colle Barbera d’Asti Nuwanda 2017 $30
Shows fine depth and clarity to the black currant, black
cherry, violet and mineral aromas and flavors. Linear in
profile and tightly packed, unraveling the fruit, mineral
and sweet spice notes leisurely on the terrific finish.
Drink now through 2025. 1,050 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Paolo Conterno Barbera d’Asti Bricco 2017
$22 This beautiful version is pure, elegant and vibrant,
featuring black currant, blackberry, violet, licorice and
graphite flavors. Sleek and focused from beginning to end,
with a long aftertaste. Drink now through 2024. 1,800
cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 119