Page 126 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Italy
92 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba
Superiore Funtanì 2016 $48 Elegant and intense,
this red features great harmony and a silky texture, ideal
foils for showcasing the blackberry, black cherry and vio-
let aromas and flavors. Pure, yet also well-structured, with
a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Drink
now through 2004. 800 cases made.—B.S.
92 Travaglini Gattinara TreVigne 2013 $52
Cherry, plum, tobacco and wet earth aromas and flavors
are accented by a light touch of oak spice in this rich,
well-defined red. A mesh of light tannins underlines the
finish. Though approachable now, this should age well.
Drink now through 2032. 23,000 cases made, 400 cases
imported.—B.S.
91 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2017 $17 See
Smart Buys, page 103.
90 Giovanni Rocca Nebbiolo d’Alba Giaculin
2017 $20 Pretty cherry and strawberry notes mark this
elegant red. Harmonious and expressive, finishing with a
hint of licorice and light, dusty tannins that leave a chalky
feel on the finish. Drink now through 2024. 750 cases
made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Coppo Barbera d’Asti L’Avvocata 2018 $17
A light-bodied, fruity red, this evokes cherry jam, cran-
berry and earth flavors, all lifted by bright acidity. Shows
a slight chalky feel on the finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases
made, 2,500 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Cordero di Montezemolo Arneis Langhe
2018 $19 A minerally edge helps keep the apple and
grapefruit flavors defined, along with mouthwatering acid-
ity. Cleansing finish. Drink now through 2023. 6,500 cases
made.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Chianti Classico
97 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva
2016 $40 See Highly Recommended, page 101.
96 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Il Puro
Gran Selezione 2015 $215 This opulent red is packed
with black cherry, black currant, leather, vanilla and min- $14 A chunky, broad-shouldered red, with plum, cherry,
eral flavors. Shows a strong underlying structure, with
dense tannins and lively acidity driving the long, resonant
finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,400 cases made,
60 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico San Lorenzo
Gran Selezione 2016 $60 See Highly Recommended,
page 101.
95 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Coltas-
sala Gran Selezione 2016 $80 Piercing aromas of
black currant, blackberry, violet and stone are augmented
by earth, tobacco and underbrush flavors. A powerful red,
with a muscular structure and a long finish. All the ele-
ments are there, but this needs time. Sangiovese and Mam-
molo. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,833 cases made,
200 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Antinori Chianti Classico Badia a Passignano
Gran Selezione 2016 $60 A lush, round version,
featuring milk chocolate hints and cherry, plum, almond
and earth flavors. Dense, with dusty tannins. The vibrant
acidity keeps all the elements defined on the lingering
aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2037. 1,100 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia
2016 $43 An underpinning of iron lends an austerity
to this red, yet there are fruit flavors of black cherry and
black currant waiting in the wings. Violet, almond, to-
bacco and earth notes add depth as the racy acidity ex-
tends the finish and leaves a mouthwatering impression.
Best from 2021 through 2033. 3,000 cases made, 1,000
cases imported.—B.S.
120 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
93 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Chianti Classico
Tenuta Perano Riserva 2015 $30 Cherry, raspberry,
leather and earth flavors pick up wild herb accents as this
develops from beginning to end. Closed today, but all the
components are in the right place. Best from 2023 through
2038. 250 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Istine Chianti Classico 2016 $25 Broad and
rich, this Chianti Classico boasts black cherry, blackberry,
violet and woodsy underbrush notes. Turns taut and sin-
ewy, flexing tannic might on the finish. Food or a little
bottle age will help. Best from 2022 through 2036. 850
cases made, 450 cases imported.—B.S.
93 La Sala Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 $35
This red starts out silky, carrying violet, blackberry, black
cherry, tobacco and iron flavors on a solid, linear frame.
Balanced in the end. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best from 2023 through 2038. 950 cases made, 400 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 $30
High-toned aromas of violet and black cherry are accented
by vanilla in this rich red. Assertive tannins gird the
finish as the acidity keeps the bright fruit flavors focused
and long. Steely yet ripe, this finds good equilibrium in
the end. Best from 2022 through 2033. 16,000 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 La Sala Chianti Classico 2016 $20 Elegant
yet solidly structured, featuring floral, cherry, strawberry,
mineral and tobacco flavors on a sleek frame. Balanced
and built for the long haul. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best
from 2023 through 2038. 3,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2016 $25
A hint of barnyard in the aroma gives way to bright cherry
and strawberry fruit and vanilla and underbrush accents.
Supple initially, firming up on the lingering finish. This
should come around in a few years. Best from 2021 through
2029. 18,333 cases made, 7,500 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico
Clemente VII 2016 $25 See Smart Buys, page 103.
91 Villa a Sesta Chianti Classico Il Palei 2015
earth, iron and tobacco flavors allied to a dense block of
tannins. Finishes dry and chewy. Best from 2023 through
2040. 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico
Castello di Bibbione Riserva 2016 $30 Dense and
concentrated, displaying black cherry, plum, violet, earth
and iron flavors. The tannins are slightly gritty, yet the
finish is long and satisfying. Best from 2022 through 2038.
8,000 cases made, 5,500 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Blue
Label 2016 $19 This has settled into a nice groove,
with ripe black currant and black cherry flavors, aug-
mented by notes of iron, tar, wild Mediterranean herbs
and pine. Rich, dense and balanced, with the structure to
age. Fine length. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2038. 15,000 cases made,
6,000 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Castello di Radda Chianti Classico 2016 $20
Packed with sweet cherry, raspberry, earth and mineral
flavors, this red is lean and toned. Dense, but refined tan-
nins lend support as this winds down on the lingering fin-
ish. Best from 2022 through 2032. 5,833 cases made, 250
cases imported.—B.S.
89 Capraia Chianti Classico 2017 $20 The
cherry and raspberry fruit exhibits purity, gaining support
from earth and iron accents. This also has a tannic streak
that leaves a dry edge on the finish. Needs food or a few
years of aging. Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Best
from 2021 through 2025. 4,000 cases made, 1,500 cases
imported.—B.S.