Page 120 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 120
New Releases: France / Germany
the finish. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and
88 Terres d’Avignon Côtes du Rhône Selected 87 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence
by Kermit Lynch 2017 $13 Fresh cherry and pome- Bourboulenc. Drink now through 2021. 183 cases made, Rosé 2018 $18 Supple, offering raspberry, orange peel
granate fruit flavors are breezy in feel, backed by subtle 50 cases imported.—J.M. and melon notes, accented with stony mineral, heather
garrigue and mineral hints on the finish. Grenache, Syrah, 93 Les Vins de Vienne Collines Rhodaniennes and spice accents, all bound together by fresh, firm acid-
Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. Drink now. 18,000 White Taburnum 2017 $80 This is showy, featuring ity. Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Mourvè-
cases imported.—J.M. expressive apricot, fennel, anise and green plum fruit, but dre. Drink now. 5,000 cases imported.—G.S.
stays juicy and focused, with a zip of green almond on the 86 Sager & Master Père & Fils Côtes de Provence
FRANCE finish. Distinctive and delicious. Drink now through 2022. Rosé Le Charmel 2018 $15 Wet stone notes linger
600 cases made, 200 cases imported.—J.M.
Rhône / White through the melon rind, grapefruit and tangerine flavors
93 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph White of this steely rosé, with details of heather and spice on the
96 Ferraton Père & Fils Ermitage White Le L’Élouède 2018 $49 Juicy and forward, with plump finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made, 11,000 cases
Reverdy 2017 $122 Warm and lush in feel, featuring star fruit, peach and apricot flavors driving through, laced imported.—G.S.
creamed melon, peach, apricot and quince notes mixed with orange blossom and quinine accents on the finish. 86 Château de Seguin Bordeaux White 2018 $6
with honeysuckle, brioche, almond and white ginger nu- Distinctive. Roussanne and Marsanne. Drink now through See Best Values, page 104.
ances through the finish. Shows terrific range and depth, 2024. 613 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M.
with the cut and drive to match. Marsanne and Rous- 92 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph White 2018
sanne. Best from 2020 through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 $35 Juicy and forward, with ripe apricot and nectarine GERMANY
cases imported.—J.M.
notes, laced with hints of bitter orange and almond that Mosel / Riesling
95 Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape add cut on the rich finish. Drink now through 2023. 360
White Les Clairette de Gabriel 2018 $94 Plump cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M. 97 Selbach-Oster Riesling Beerenauslese*
and lush in feel, with a mix of white peach, ginger, acacia 92 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Péray 2018 $35 Ripe Mosel Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 2017 $112/375ml
and yellow apple fruit flavors, lined with verbena and qui- and lush, with creamed yellow apple, white peach and Remarkable, with seamless purity to the orange marma-
nine hints that add detail and energy through the finish. yellow plum flavors, gilded with verbena and honeysuckle lade, spruce jelly, flambéed apricot and chamomile honey
Drink now through 2022. 28 cases imported.—J.M. flavors. Shows amazing minerality despite all the sweet-
notes. A shortbread echo shows on the finish. Drink now ness, melding seamlessly with the silky texture and sup-
95 Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape through 2021. 560 cases made, 80 cases imported.—J.M. ported by a vibrant structure, which keeps this fresh and
White Les Vieilles Roussanne... 2018 $94 Ripe 92 Stéphane Ogier Viognier Collines Rhodani- clean on the kaleidoscopic finish. Drink now through
and enticing, featuring creamed melon and yellow apple ennes Rosine 2018 $41 Anise, yellow plum and apri- 2050. 25 cases imported.—A.Z.
flavors, laced with nectarine, heather, ginger and warm cot notes swirl together in this medium-weight, rounded
brioche notes. The long and opulent finish sails through white, backed by a hint of green almond on the expressive 94 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Mosel
beautifully. A hedonist’s delight. Drink now through 2022. finish. Drink now through 2021. 400 cases imported.—J.M. Erdener Prälat 2017 $115/375ml A vibrant but juicy
28 cases imported.—J.M. style, sporting mandarin orange notes up front, while fla-
92 Château Sixtine Châteauneuf-du-Pape vors of sweetened chamomile tea, peach and cream emerge
95 Les Vins de Vienne Condrieu La Chambée White 2018 $70 Lively, with a mix of star fruit, white midpalate. Underneath the sweetness, this reveals a firm
2018 $85 Ripe and lush, with creamed pear, apricot peach, honeysuckle and fennel notes racing along. The structure that provides support. Quite long on the finish.
and green melon flavors gliding through, lined with anise bright, open-knit finish leaves a mouthwatering echo. Best from 2022 through 2037. 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
and honeysuckle notes on the effusive finish. A captivat- Should benefit from a little time in the cellar. Drink now
ing display of fruit. Drink now through 2023. 672 cases through 2022. 266 cases made, 30 cases imported.—J.M. 94 S.A. Prüm Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
made, 250 cases imported.—J.M. Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015 $440/375ml
92 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Péray 2018 $28 Lush Concentrated, with ample acidity that is covered by the
94 Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher 2018 $96 Ripe and inviting, with melon, peach and nectarine flavors, sweetness for now. The texture coats the palate and the
and showy, with nectarine, green plum and apricot flavors laced liberally with lemon shortbread notes. Light verbena acidity balances the honey, apple sauce, caramel, grilled
bouncing off each other, allied to a lush and creamy tex- details echo. An enticing, hedonistic white. Marsanne hazelnut and candied orange peel notes. Drink now through
ture as they move through the anise-tinged finish. Won- and Roussanne. Drink now through 2020. 830 cases made, 2038. 13 cases made, 2 cases imported.—A.Z.
derfully exotic. Drink now through 2022. 567 cases 300 cases imported.—J.M.
made.—J.M. 94 Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Mosel
90 Diffonty & Fils Côtes du Rhône White Cuvée Bockstein GG 2017 $61 This is fascinatingly open
94 Ferraton Père & Fils Hermitage White Les du Vatican Réserve de l’Abbé 2018 $18 Bright star right now, but still holds much in reserve. Offers a seduc-
Miaux 2017 $91 Solidly built, with ripe white peach, fruit, fennel, white peach and verbena notes race along, tive texture reminiscent of fine silk. Pure and elegant,
yellow apple and green plum notes mixed together kalei- with a flash of lemon peel on the lively finish. Grenache with powerful but well-integrated acidity enlivening hints
doscopically. The finish is carried by a zing of bitter al- Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. Drink now through 2020. of kiwifruit, guava, sweet Asian spices and sea salt. Hon-
mond and quinine that adds tension and length to the 2,660 cases made, 1,260 cases imported.—J.M. eysuckle notes linger on the finish. Drink now through
showy fruit. Best from 2020 through 2028. 90 cases made, 2032. 400 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
20 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE 94 Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Mosel
94 Stéphane Ogier Condrieu La Combe de Mal- Layet GG 2017 $56 The cashmerelike texture caresses
leval 2018 $82 Plump, with anise, peach and melon Other the palate, featuring seductive flavors of guava and kiwi-
flavors woven together, backed by honeysuckle and or- fruit, with orange acidity keeping everything intact. Sa-
ange blossom notes. The expressive and fresh finish is very 88 Domaine Camaïssette Coteaux d’Aix-en- vory and floral notes appear on the detailed finish. This
long. Drink now through 2022. 200 cases imported.—J.M. Provence Rosé L’Aurélienne 2018 $19 Steely acid- is very well-balanced and enjoyable now. Best from 2022
ity weaves through the melon, orange peel and dried through 2032. 100 cases made, 25 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Ferraton Père & Fils St.-Joseph White Les raspberry flavors of this tangy rosé, with undertones of
Oliviers 2017 $78 Not shy on ripeness, showing a mix spice, heather and wet stone gaining traction on the fin- 93 Dr. Lippold Riesling Auslese Mosel Ürziger
of melon, peach and apricot flavors, lined with singed al- ish. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. Drink now. 3,000 Würzgarten Weltersberg 2012 $46 This has de-
mond and warm brioche accents. Features good zip for cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—G.S. veloped nicely, showing lovely integration of acidity, min-
balance through the finish as the showy fruit plays out. erality and different fruit and spice elements. Honeydew,
Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2024. 225 88 Commanderie de Peyrassol Côtes de persimmon, vanilla spice and juniper notes mark the pal-
cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M. Provence Rosé La Bernarde Les Hauts du Luc 2018 ate, while the texture offers silkiness and a slight crunch
$16 This rosé offers a fresh, balanced profile of kumquat, as this cruises to a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now
93 Ferraton Père & Fils St.-Péray Le Mialan 2018 cantaloupe and white raspberry flavors, gaining depth through 2032. 170 cases made, 110 cases imported.—A.Z.
$34 Ginger, jasmine and yellow apple flavors mix in from wet stone, heather and savory spice details.
this corpulent white, with acacia and white peach details Features a long, lingering finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases 93 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Erdener
showing through on the finish. Showy and rich, but has imported.—G.S. Treppchen 2017 $65/375ml Floral and elegant, with
juicy energy for balance. Drink now through 2022. 500 aromas of orchard blossom, while the palate shows brac-
cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M. 87 Jolie-Pitt & Perrin Méditerranée Rosé Studio ing acidity behind the flavors of quince, nectarine and
by Miraval 2018 $14 Salty, sea breeze notes flank the sweetened dandelion tea. Features a bit of crunch toward
93 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape delicate white raspberry, melon and tangerine peel flavors the finish, where slate minerality kicks in. Mouthwater-
White Cuvée Réservée 2018 $75 This has a creamy in this delicate rosé. Offers a spicy, crisp finish. Cinsault, ing finish. Best from 2021 through 2037. 25 cases
feel, with pretty pear, green plum, heather and honey- Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Drink now. 20,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
suckle notes, gilded with a subtle brioche hint through imported.—G.S.
114 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
