Page 123 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 123
New Releases: Germany / Italy
92 Fitz-Ritter Riesling Pfalz Ungstein Herren- 96 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi 2016 $71 93 Bel Colle Barbaresco Pajorè 2016 $50 Per-
berg GG 2018 $46 This shows a bit of weight on the See Highly Recommended, page 101. fumed, offering floral, berry and licorice aromas, backed
palate, with an almost oily texture, but the ripe acidity by complex flavors of fruit, flowers and spices, with ac-
cuts through, offsetting the richness and delivering pure 95 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barbaresco cents of licorice and tar. Fluid and silky, showing fine har-
notes of quince, passion fruit and savory mineral. Crunchy Rio Sordo 2016 $105 A pristine red, displaying great mony and length on the finish. Best from 2021 through
on the finish, offering fine length and complexity. Best clarity to the strawberry, cherry, rose and menthol flavors. 2035. 850 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
from 2021 through 2029. 75 cases made, 28 cases By the time this evolves to the finish, the tannins make
imported.—A.Z. their mark, yet never overstep their bounds. In the 93 Moccagatta Barbaresco Cole 2016 $77 Ripe
end this is balanced, expressive and set to develop. Best and spicy, yet fluid, this Barbaresco packs plenty of plum,
from 2023 through 2043. 400 cases made, 50 cases cherry, leather and tar flavors into a sleek, vibrant profile,
92 Tesch Riesling Nahe imported.—B.S. enhanced by vanilla, coconut and toasty notes from the
Königsschild 2018 $30 Ele- new oak treatment. Firms up on the finish. Best from 2022
gant, with a seductive, silky texture, 95 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Camp Gros through 2038. 160 cases made, 80 cases imported.—B.S.
featuring notes of candied orange Martinenga Riserva 2013 $125 The cherry, straw-
peel, quince and jasmine. The acid- berry, earth, tobacco and mineral aromas and flavors show 93 Albino Rocca Barbaresco 2016 $50 Bright
ity hits like an electric shock, but depth. This builds to the long finish and exhibits terrific and energetic, this is full of cherry, raspberry and tar fla-
there is enough substance for bal- balance and harmony. Decant now if you must, but should vors, with a hint of wild herb, all matched to a rich tex-
ance. Mineral and spice accents be better with some cellaring. Drink now through 2038. ture. Balanced overall, this firms up as the dusty tannins
mark the long finish. Give this a few 700 cases made, 62 cases imported.—B.S. kick in on the lingering finish. Best from 2023 through
years to integrate fully. Best from 2040. 580 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S.
2022 through 2031. 1,500 cases 95 Moccagatta Barbaresco Basarin 2016 $65
MARTIN TESCH Toasty oak wraps around the plum and cherry fruit in this 93 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabajà 2015 $97
made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z. Owner & Winemaker
lush red. Accents of menthol, tar and tobacco chime in Rich and almost chewy, boasting cherry, plum, licorice,
as this builds to a long finish. Balanced and fresh, but tar and earth flavors. Balanced and satisfying, showing
92 Villa Wolf Riesling Pfalz Dry Forster Pech- needs time to integrate the oak. Best from 2023 through fine intensity and a long, fruit- and earth-tinged finish.
stein Library Release 2012 $40 A nicely developed 2042. 400 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S. Best from 2022 through 2039. 518 cases made, 35 cases
white, featuring an interesting texture. This has integrated imported.—B.S.
well over the years, with acidity serving as the backbone, 95 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigna Loreto
helping notes of apricot, beeswax, pine and hops to stay Ovello 2016 $69 Sour cherry and rose petal aromas 93 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá 2014 $100
focused. Wet stone details mark the finish. Drink now segue into currant, licorice and loam flavors in this elegant Dense and tightly wound, with a kernel of ripe cherry and
through 2024. 50 cases imported.—A.Z. yet tightly wound red. Austere and a bit severe on the plum fruit locked within the beefy tannins. It’s difficult
finish today, yet shows terrific balance and length. Best to see where this is going today, but all the components
92 Robert Weil Riesling Spätlese Rheingau from 2022 through 2037. 200 cases made, 70 cases are in the right proportions. Wild herb and earth accents
2018 $30 Very elegant, but with good concentration, imported.—B.S. add detail. Best from 2024 through 2043. 200 cases made,
displaying apricot, peach and lemon notes that are inten- 80 cases imported.—B.S.
sified by bright acidity. Mouthfilling midpalate, imparting 95 Luigi Voghera Barbaresco Basarin 2015 $40
a sense of crunch. The finish shows sweet spice hints, in- Expressive and juicy, offering cherry, plum, black currant 93 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré 2016 $82
viting you back for another sip. Best from 2022 through and licorice flavors. Tobacco, eucalyptus and mineral ele- Warm notes of licorice and leather embrace cherry and
2036. 750 cases made.—A.Z. ments add depth, while the aftertaste lingers. Shows ter- plum flavors in this spicy red. Tobacco and earth accents
rific harmony and refinement. Best from 2022 through add depth as this plays out on the firm finish. Rich and
92 Zehnthof Luckert Silvaner Franken Sonnen- 2040. 330 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. broad, showing density and grip. Best from 2022 through
berg Gebkalk 2018 $45 Elegant, harmonious and 2035. 380 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
vibrant, with a crunchy texture and fine minerality run- 94 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barbaresco
ning through. Flavors of honeysuckle, glazed pear and Chiaramanti 2016 $100 This red is all about pure 93 La Spinetta Barbaresco Vigneto Bordini
citrus mingle at the core, while spice and savory herbal cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, highlighted 2016 $55 Violet, raspberry and juniper flavors mark
hints glide along the edges. Good length. Drink now by hints of eucalyptus, tar and tobacco. Though elegant, this elegant yet firmly structured Barbaresco. Hints of
through 2027. 600 cases made.—A.Z. a firm backbone of acidity and tannins lends support. earth, iron and eucalyptus add detail as this tightens up
Shows fine length and harmony. Best from 2022 through on the finish. Decant now or cellar. Best from 2023
90 Tesch Riesling Nahe Löhrer Berg 2018 $19 2040. 330 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S. through 2040. 1,083 cases made, 152 cases imported.—B.S.
A mineral-driven white, featuring a prominent saffron
aroma that extends on the palate. Crunchy and very dry, 94 Cigliuti Barbaresco Vie Erte 2016 $52 A 92 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Reyna 2016 $50
with powerful acidity, but showing enough flesh for bal- rose aroma introduces this elegant, fruity red, along with Menthol and eucalyptus aromas and flavors mark this in-
ance. Not a blockbuster but would work very well with notes of underbrush and sun-kissed hay that offset the tense red, picking up cherry, plum and sweet spice notes
food, especially crudo. Best from 2021 through 2027. 1,250 core of cherry flavors. Dense, assertive tannins shore up as this builds to a lingering finish. Dusty tannins and a
cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z. the finish and leave an astringent feel, yet there is plenty cocoa accent line the aftertaste. Best from 2023 through
of fruit and length. Best from 2023 through 2045. 500 2036. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Tesch Riesling Nahe Unplugged 2018 $20 cases made, 175 cases imported.—B.S.
Herbal and floral, with a lean body. The acidity and min- 92 Moccagatta Barbaresco 2016 $51 Spicy and
erality combine to build a firm structure. This is more 94 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin 2016 $65 inviting, featuring a beam of pure cherry, leather, licorice
about texture and minerality than fruit. Approachable, Well-marked by vanilla, coconut and toasty oak aromas and tar flavors, shaded by vanilla and toasty oak. Firm,
but should be paired with food. Drink now through 2024. and flavors, this red offers ripe cherry and plum notes and with a touch of dryness on the finish. Bright acidity keeps
7,100 cases made, 1,050 cases imported.—A.Z. a spine of vibrant acidity. This should really sing once it this vibrant and long. Be patient. Best from 2022 through
integrates more fully. Features a fine, mouthwatering fin- 2035. 700 cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Dry 100 ish, with a chalky, minerally aftertaste. Best from 2023
Hills 2018 $16 A charming, floral version, with hints through 2037. 1,100 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S. 92 Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni 2016 $82
of exotic fruit and a core filled with ripe pear and clem- Plum and cherry fruit is accented by licorice, leather and
entine flavors. A wave of spices hits the palate before this 94 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2016 tar notes in this tightly wound red. The tannins are on
dissipates on the moderate finish. Drink now. 7,500 cases $58 Pure, exhibiting rose, cherry and raspberry aromas. the severe side today, yet this finds equilibrium in the end.
made.—A.Z. Elements of tobacco, eucalyptus, mineral and tar chime Best from 2023 through 2043. 450 cases made, 200 cases
in on the palate. Elegant and long on the finish. Firms up imported.—B.S.
ITALY and shows fine balance overall. Best from 2022 through
2037. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
Piedmont / Barbaresco ITALY
94 Sottimano Barbaresco Cottá 2016 $82 A Piedmont / Barolo
beam of cherry courses through this rich red, shaded by
97 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Angelo 2016 $116
Cherry, kirsch and peony aromas and flavors are the main floral, iron and tobacco accents. This is taut, finishing 97 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva
features of this delicate red. These themes are accented with dense tannins that make this suitable for the long 2010 $900 Alluring aromas of cherry, plum, sandal-
by tar, tobacco and underbrush notes, showing an under- haul. Shows fine balance and intensity, but patience is wood, rose and wild herbs highlight this expressive red.
pinning of mineral as this builds to a long finish. Beauti- required. Best from 2023 through 2045. 750 cases made, Deceptive, starting out elegant, until the dense weave
fully balanced, with a white pepper aftertaste. Best 400 cases imported.—B.S. of tannins emerges on the long, mineral-tinged finish.
from 2022 through 2042. 175 cases made, 30 cases Best from 2022 through 2045. 250 cases made, 25 cases
imported.—B.S. imported.—B.S.
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 117
