Page 121 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 121

New Releases: Germany



         93  Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Ürziger                92  S.A.  Prüm Riesling  Beerenauslese  Mosel                89  Dr. Lippold Riesling Mosel Empress Jose-
         Würzgarten 2017  $65/375ml  Mineral-driven, with             Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015  $200/375ml  Devel-                  phine’s 2012  $14  Medium-bodied and creamy in tex-
         a lively profile, featuring notes of nectarine, lemon oil,   oped and unctuous, with concentrated flavors of peach        ture, creating a sweet and spicy impression at the core,
         candied orange peel and sweet spice. The acidity is very     nectar, apricot tart and gooseberry jelly, filled with hon-  featuring honeyed chamomile tea, turmeric and candied
         prominent and cuts the sweetness significantly, leaving a    eyed notes. Shows creaminess midpalate, presenting an        ginger flavors. Enticing, but tails off a bit on the finish.
         mouthwatering impression on the long finish. Best from       elegant and sweet finish that glides endlessly into rich     Drink now. 350 cases made, 280 cases imported.—A.Z.
         2021 through 2036. 25 cases imported.—A.Z.                   custardy accents. Drink now through 2032. 9 cases made,
                                                                      2 cases imported.—A.Z.                                       88  Dr.  Loosen Riesling  Kabinett  Mosel  Blue
         92  Dr. Lippold Riesling Kabinett Mosel Ürziger                                                                           Slate 2018  $22  A floral style, with a delicate profile,
         Würzgarten Weltersberg 2015  $32  This shows                 92  Dr. H. Thanisch Müller-Burggraef Riesling                showing notes of orchard blossom, candied lime and pear.
         good development of flavors, with a very slight hint of      Mosel Berncasteler Doctor GG 2017  $73  This fea-            Quite charming, but the flavor intensity falls off on the
         paraffin that dissipates and turns into beeswax and pine     tures intriguing spicy notes of clove and star anise that    finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
         notes on the palate, accenting the yellow apple and crisp    extend from start to finish, while the core is marked by
         pear elements. Spice and floral details emerge on the fin-   flavors of quince and pear. Silky in texture, showing slight   86  Heinz Eifel Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2018  $12
         ish. Drink now through 2026. 180 cases made, 145 cases       grip on the dry finish. Drink now through 2027. 40 cases     Silky, with aromas and flavors of sweet spice up front,
         imported.—A.Z.                                               made, 12 cases imported.—A.Z.                                while nectarine notes emerge midpalate. Moderate length.
                                                                                                                                   Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 3,800 cases imported.—A.Z.
         92  Dr. Lippold Riesling Spätlese Mosel Ürziger              92  Nik  Weis  St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling  Mosel
         Würzgarten Weltersberg 2013  $39  Beautifully de-            Saar feilser GG 2017  $44  A harmonious white, silky         GERMANY
         veloped, this is not about sweetness or an explosion of      in texture, with an exotic profile, featuring notes of lychee
         fruit anymore. The typical high acidity of the vintage       and clementine, while cardamom accents glide along the       Other
         screams through, while notes of yellow apple, lanolin,       edges. Profound and very expressive, fueled by powerful
         pine and grapefruit mark the palate. Mouthwatering and       but well-integrated acidity. Hints of cream mark the per-    93  Tesch Riesling Nahe Karthäuser 2018  $30
         crunchy, with a unique spicy streak marking the long fin-    sistent finish. Best from 2021 through 2031. 200 cases       Floral and herbal elements mark the nose, with saffron
         ish. Drink now through 2029. 120 cases made, 95 cases        made, 75 cases imported.—A.Z.                                details leading the way and extending on the palate, meet-
         imported.—A.Z.                                                                                                            ing flavors of ripe lime, yellow apple and white pepper.
                                                                      92  Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Spätlese                Very pure and focused, but needs a bit more time for the
         92  Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Wehlener               Mosel Bockstein 2018  $46  A pure, precise version,          acidity to mellow. Best from 2022 through 2032. 800 cases
         Sonnenuhr 2017  $65/375ml  The intense acidity acts          showing good cut to the mango, white peach and lilac         made, 400 cases imported.—A.Z.
         as a backbone and drives the flavors of yellow apple, lemon   aromas and flavors. Intense yet well-balanced, with a
         curd and orange blossom honey, with hints of spruce. Elec-   crunchy, minerally feel and even a bit of grip. Gets a bit   93  Tesch Riesling Nahe St.-Remigiusberg 2018
         tric and pungent, this shows lots of complexity and is just   salty on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2034. 400       $45  Well-crafted, with a silky yet crunchy texture, this
         starting to come together. Beautiful length. Best from 2021   cases made, 125 cases imported.—A.Z.                        white shows spice and mineral details that add to the
         through 2036. 75 cases imported.—A.Z.                                                                                     complexity. The core features pear and nectarine flavors,
                                                                      90  Nik  Weis  St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling  Mosel                underscored by hints of cream and tarragon. This is almost
                                                                      From Old Vines 2018  $18  See Smart Buys, page 103.
                                                                                                                                   ready to drink but should start showing its best in a few
                                                                                                                                   years. Best from 2021 through 2031. 1,500 cases made,
                                                                                                                                   300 cases imported.—A.Z.




















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