Page 121 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 121
New Releases: Germany
93 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Ürziger 92 S.A. Prüm Riesling Beerenauslese Mosel 89 Dr. Lippold Riesling Mosel Empress Jose-
Würzgarten 2017 $65/375ml Mineral-driven, with Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015 $200/375ml Devel- phine’s 2012 $14 Medium-bodied and creamy in tex-
a lively profile, featuring notes of nectarine, lemon oil, oped and unctuous, with concentrated flavors of peach ture, creating a sweet and spicy impression at the core,
candied orange peel and sweet spice. The acidity is very nectar, apricot tart and gooseberry jelly, filled with hon- featuring honeyed chamomile tea, turmeric and candied
prominent and cuts the sweetness significantly, leaving a eyed notes. Shows creaminess midpalate, presenting an ginger flavors. Enticing, but tails off a bit on the finish.
mouthwatering impression on the long finish. Best from elegant and sweet finish that glides endlessly into rich Drink now. 350 cases made, 280 cases imported.—A.Z.
2021 through 2036. 25 cases imported.—A.Z. custardy accents. Drink now through 2032. 9 cases made,
2 cases imported.—A.Z. 88 Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett Mosel Blue
92 Dr. Lippold Riesling Kabinett Mosel Ürziger Slate 2018 $22 A floral style, with a delicate profile,
Würzgarten Weltersberg 2015 $32 This shows 92 Dr. H. Thanisch Müller-Burggraef Riesling showing notes of orchard blossom, candied lime and pear.
good development of flavors, with a very slight hint of Mosel Berncasteler Doctor GG 2017 $73 This fea- Quite charming, but the flavor intensity falls off on the
paraffin that dissipates and turns into beeswax and pine tures intriguing spicy notes of clove and star anise that finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
notes on the palate, accenting the yellow apple and crisp extend from start to finish, while the core is marked by
pear elements. Spice and floral details emerge on the fin- flavors of quince and pear. Silky in texture, showing slight 86 Heinz Eifel Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2018 $12
ish. Drink now through 2026. 180 cases made, 145 cases grip on the dry finish. Drink now through 2027. 40 cases Silky, with aromas and flavors of sweet spice up front,
imported.—A.Z. made, 12 cases imported.—A.Z. while nectarine notes emerge midpalate. Moderate length.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 3,800 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Dr. Lippold Riesling Spätlese Mosel Ürziger 92 Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Mosel
Würzgarten Weltersberg 2013 $39 Beautifully de- Saar feilser GG 2017 $44 A harmonious white, silky GERMANY
veloped, this is not about sweetness or an explosion of in texture, with an exotic profile, featuring notes of lychee
fruit anymore. The typical high acidity of the vintage and clementine, while cardamom accents glide along the Other
screams through, while notes of yellow apple, lanolin, edges. Profound and very expressive, fueled by powerful
pine and grapefruit mark the palate. Mouthwatering and but well-integrated acidity. Hints of cream mark the per- 93 Tesch Riesling Nahe Karthäuser 2018 $30
crunchy, with a unique spicy streak marking the long fin- sistent finish. Best from 2021 through 2031. 200 cases Floral and herbal elements mark the nose, with saffron
ish. Drink now through 2029. 120 cases made, 95 cases made, 75 cases imported.—A.Z. details leading the way and extending on the palate, meet-
imported.—A.Z. ing flavors of ripe lime, yellow apple and white pepper.
92 Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Spätlese Very pure and focused, but needs a bit more time for the
92 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Mosel Wehlener Mosel Bockstein 2018 $46 A pure, precise version, acidity to mellow. Best from 2022 through 2032. 800 cases
Sonnenuhr 2017 $65/375ml The intense acidity acts showing good cut to the mango, white peach and lilac made, 400 cases imported.—A.Z.
as a backbone and drives the flavors of yellow apple, lemon aromas and flavors. Intense yet well-balanced, with a
curd and orange blossom honey, with hints of spruce. Elec- crunchy, minerally feel and even a bit of grip. Gets a bit 93 Tesch Riesling Nahe St.-Remigiusberg 2018
tric and pungent, this shows lots of complexity and is just salty on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2034. 400 $45 Well-crafted, with a silky yet crunchy texture, this
starting to come together. Beautiful length. Best from 2021 cases made, 125 cases imported.—A.Z. white shows spice and mineral details that add to the
through 2036. 75 cases imported.—A.Z. complexity. The core features pear and nectarine flavors,
90 Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling Mosel underscored by hints of cream and tarragon. This is almost
From Old Vines 2018 $18 See Smart Buys, page 103.
ready to drink but should start showing its best in a few
years. Best from 2021 through 2031. 1,500 cases made,
300 cases imported.—A.Z.
1ST VINTAGE
SANTA CATERINA
POINTS
CHIANTI CLASSICO SUPERIOR
POINTS CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA
POINTS
CHARACTER AND
STYLE
CASTELLO DI
ALBOLA
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JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 115

