Page 124 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Italy
96 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2013
$185 Linear, defined more by structure than flavor to-
day. Lively acidity buoys the cherry, currant, iron and to- fruit, mineral and tobacco notes. Best from 2022 through
bacco notes, while refined tannins lend support. Very long
and fresh on the finish, but needs a few more years to
reach its peak. Best from 2023 through 2045. 500 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Elio Altare Barolo Unoperuno 2015 $350
This has plenty of punch and a velvety texture. Cherry,
plum, licorice and tar flavors are beautifully integrated
with the round tannins and bright acidity. A hint of mint
graces the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2023 through
2045. 100 cases made, 80 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Conterno Fantino Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì
Ginestra 2015 $129 Ample sweet plum, blackberry,
black cherry, licorice, tar and underbrush aromas and fla-
vors are accented by vanilla and toasty oak in this lively
Barolo. Pure, verging on racy, with a light sinewy feel to
the tannins. Complex, fresh and long. Best from 2024
through 2043. 1,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Conterno Fantino Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped
2015 $118 Bright, complex and multidimensional, ex-
uding plum, black cherry, iron, tobacco, tar and eucalyp-
tus flavors. A vibrant character persists through the long
finish, which is lined with pointed yet refined tannins.
Best from 2024 through 2045. 510 cases made, 250 cases
imported.—B.S.
95 Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello 2015 $175
Alluring aromas of black currant, cherry, licorice and mint
are set against a backdrop of vanilla and toasty oak notes
in this red. Ripe cherry and plum flavors ply the middle
as this plays out on the long, fruit- and spice-filled after- A delicate version, this nonetheless features a solid back-
taste. Best from 2023 through 2043. 500 cases made, 62
cases imported.—B.S.
95 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bussia 2015 $70 En-
ticing cherry and raspberry flavors mark this round, supple
Barolo, with accents of anise, leather, mineral and tar.
Shows some muscle underneath, providing a base of dense
tannins for support. All the elements mesh nicely, provid-
ing a lasting impression of sweet fruit in the lingering af- notes from the oak treatment add interest. Energetic and
tertaste. Best from 2022 through 2042. 1,160 cases made,
200 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2015
$95 Not showing much today, this red reveals an un-
dercurrent of iron and black pepper notes supporting the
core of cherry, plum, earth and tobacco flavors. Fresh and
intense, with a long, resonant aftertaste of fruit, tar and
spice. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 15
cases imported.—B.S.
95 Massolino Barolo Margheria 2015 $107 Of-
fers a gorgeous expression of cherry, strawberry and plum
fruit, shaded by tobacco, eucalyptus and tar accents. Re-
mains pure and elegant due to the vibrant structure, show-
ing terrific balance and a long, fresh aftertaste of fruit,
wild herbs, tobacco and mineral. Best from 2022 through
2043. 205 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Massolino Barolo Parafada 2015 $107 Of-
fers ripe cherry, raspberry and currant aromas and flavors,
with floral, loamy earth and underbrush accents. This is
backed by lively acidity and refined tannins, leaving a
harmonious and lingering aftertaste. Shows fine energy
and intensity. Best from 2023 through 2043. 315 cases
made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 2015
$105 The sweetness from ripe plum and cherry fruit
offsets the broad swath of tannins. Energetic and focused,
with leather, soy, iron and tobacco accents supporting the
fruit. Feels balanced, but needs time for all the elements
to integrate. Better than previously reviewed. Best from
2023 through 2045. 880 cases made.—B.S.
94 Bel Colle Barolo Simposio 2015 $60 Aro-
mas and flavors of pure cherry denote this supple, expres-
sive red. Hints of leather, licorice, mint, tar and spice add
118 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
complexity, though this retains a serious underlying struc-
ture. Fluid and harmonious, this finishes with a mix of
2042. 6,900 cases made, 225 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Conterno Fantino Barolo Castelletto Vigna
Pressenda 2015 $127 Power and density are the hall-
marks of this vivid red. Cherry, plum, tobacco, tar and
iron flavors are buoyed by muscular tannins. All the com-
ponents are in the right place, so be patient. Best from
2024 through 2047. 300 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia 2015 $100
Ripe and broad, retaining a lively feel that defines the
macerated plum, licorice, leather, tar and spice flavors.
Shows an underlying streak of iron and a hint of black
pepper as this winds down on the long finish. The tan-
nins are assertive, balanced by ample fruit. Best from 2024
through 2045. 1,583 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2015 $175
Feels a bit overripe, showing cooked plum, leather, lico-
rice, sandalwood, toasty and vanilla flavors. The tannins
are gruff, though overall the balance leans to the dry side.
Delivers fine length, with a graphite note emerging on
the mouthwatering aftertaste. Best from 2024 through
2047. 500 cases made, 87 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco 2015 $300
Well-marked by vanilla and toasty oak aromas and flavors,
this features plum, cherry, tar, eucalyptus and leather notes
that are contained for now. Classy and harmonious even
at this youthful stage. Patience is required. Best from 2023
through 2040. 483 cases made, 30 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 2015 $94
bone of tannins and lively acidity driving the cherry,
strawberry, soy, clay and leafy tobacco flavors. Tightly
wound, turning more dense on the finish. Best from 2022
through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Manzoni 2015
$85 Plum, cherry, licorice, leather and spice flavors
mark this vibrant, firmly structured red. Vanilla and toast
long. Best from 2023 through 2040. 250 cases made, 100
cases imported.—B.S.
94 Luigi Pira Barolo Margheria 2015 $62 Men-
thol, tar and black cherry flavors highlight this taut red,
picking up underbrush notes as this builds to a compact
finish. Shows the dense, finely woven and steely charac-
ter of Serralunga, with balance and grace. Best from 2023
through 2040. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste 2015 $175
Rose and juniper aromas lead off, settling this red into
pure flavors of floral, cherry, strawberry, sun-warmed hay,
licorice and mineral. Linear and firm, yet classy and ele-
gant, this tightens up on the finish. Best from 2023
through 2043. 150 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Schiavenza Barolo Prapò Riserva 2012 $102
Full of coconut, vanilla, leather and dried cherry flavors,
this red is flamboyant, driven forward by vivid acidity and
dense, dusty tannins from new oak. Though long, this
lacks cohesion today. Best from 2022 through 2036. 110
cases made, 45 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio Barolo La Villa
2015 $62 Ripe and juicy, offering macerated cherry,
currant, raspberry, loam and eucalyptus flavors. Firms up,
with a tobacco element emerging on the long finish. Feels
almost approachable now, until the dusty tannins kick in.
Best from 2022 through 2042. 500 cases made, 250 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Matteo Ascheri Barolo Coste & Bricco 2015
$200 This is bright, displaying cherry, plum, currant
and earth aromas and flavors. Elegant, but gets support
from light, refined tannins. Accents of licorice, iron and
tobacco line the finish. Best from 2022 through 2037. 275
cases made.—B.S.
93 Enzo Boglietti Barolo Fossati 2015 $71
Though dense and firmly structured, this red has energy
driving the cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco, licorice and tea
flavors. Tightens up on the finish, where the prickly tan-
nins are present but not overbearing. Best from 2023
through 2042. 426 cases made, 127 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Gianfranco Bovio Barolo 2015 $50 A fruity
style, this shows cherry, plum, licorice, iron and tobacco
flavors. Firm tannins provide a base of support, but over-
all this is elegant and expressive. Fine balance and length.
Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,200 cases made, 750 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Gianfranco Bovio Barolo Rocchettevino
2015 $59 Pure and fluid, featuring cherry, raspberry,
floral and juniper aromas and flavors that eventually give
way to dense, dusty tannins. Sleek and taut, with a leafy
underbrush finish. Best from 2023 through 2042. 600 cases
made, 350 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Broccardo Barolo Paiagallo 2015 $70 Vel-
vety, offering plum, cherry, leather, white pepper and warm
hay aromas and flavors. Powerful too, showing a bit of
heat, staying balanced in a big-boned frame. Offers a fine,
lively finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 410 cases
made, 180 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barolo Rapet
2015 $109 A core of bright black cherry and black
currant flavors is surrounded by iron, tar and tobacco
notes. Assertive tannins take over as this evolves, yet the
overall impression is one of balance. Mineral and earth
elements ply the aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2043.
250 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Quinto Chionetti & Figlio Barolo Primo 2015
$84 Aromatic, offering rose, strawberry, cherry and eu-
calyptus notes, picking up more of the eucalyptus and
mint side of the flavor spectrum, along with hints of lico-
rice and tar. Fresh, elegant and balanced, with a firm struc-
ture evident on the lingering finish. Best from 2022
through 2043. 265 cases made.—B.S.
93 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra Riserva 2011
$242 A distinctive aroma of orange rind and flavors of
cherry, plum, tar, iron and eucalyptus highlight this opu-
lent, densely structured red. Still youthful and tannic, but
going in the right direction. Best from 2023 through 2040.
400 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Paolo Conterno Barolo Riva del Bric 2015
$59 A fresh, expressive version, featuring ripe cherry,
plum, licorice, leather, tar and spice aromas and flavors.
The sweetness of the ripe fruit is offset by firm, dusty tan-
nins, yet in the end this is balanced and long. Very vi-
brant. Best from 2023 through 2042. 1,500 cases made,
250 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI
2015 $100 Marked by new oak, this red sports plum
and cherry fruit that offers sweetness, as well as notes of
leather, tar, spice and tobacco. Dense tannins ply the fin-
ish, yet this finds balance, if in a more muscular style. Best
from 2023 through 2040. 560 cases made.—B.S.
93 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Bussia 2015 $107 Aro-
mas and flavors of medicinal herbs and cherry mingle in
this fluid red. Assertive tannins line the finish, yet they
are more refined and pointed than rustic. Licorice, mint
and tobacco notes complete the profile. Best from 2022
through 2038. 650 cases made.—B.S.
93 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Cannubi 2015 $107
Packed with sweet ripe fruit, this remains fluid and grace-
ful, with vibrant acidity streamlining the flavors and guid-
ing the finish. A bit firm in the end, evoking tobacco and
mint notes. Best from 2023 through 2043. 1,000 cases
made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.